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Our Towns
Passing Gas...and Other Towns Along the American Highway

By Gary Gladstone

Part II

 

July 12: Ain't That Peculiar?

To plan our next three stops, we spend the morning amid phone calls, reservations and routings. Then we hit the Interstate for five grinding hours as we make our way toward Peculiar...as if you didn't think we were already there.

We arrive in Peculiar, Missouri, in the late afternoon and scout our location for tomorrow's shoot. A pocket compass helps us determine where the sun will be when we want to shoot our school teacher subject. She had told us that Peculiarites like to talk about their unique three-legged water tower. We figure that this is a good starting point for a picture possibility, so it's off to the water tower. It says "Peculiar" on it and that's good, but someone has placed a small satellite dish on the tower's railing and what we see is "Pec" and "iar." Well, we think, the water tower's pretty ugly anyway.

We find three good sites for a portrait, guess the position of the morning sun and then decide to scout the three roads leading into town. We're looking for signs that say "Peculiar" in case we need back-up shots.

A mile into the countryside we find no great signs and decide to head back. As I make a U-turn I spot a red plastic pinwheel planted in the grass at the side of the road spinning in the setting sun. Between the pinwheel and the pavement are four hearts fashioned of thin red metal planted in the rough edge-grass. We drive up very slowly and see that it's a shrine, complete with a six-foot high hand-made sign that displays photographs of four young women, three of whom appear to be teen-aged sisters. The sign reads, "Four lives lost because of a careless driver."

There is a palpable sense of grief and despair here. For three or four minutes, neither Matt nor I move or speak. I stare at the shrine and try very hard to imagine the loss felt by those who built it. There is no way I can. I don't take a picture.

We tighten our seat belts and drive silently back to Peculiar. Tomorrow we will be photographing a young mom, maybe with her daughters. I think that the shrine at the side of the road is going to influence my pictures of people for some time.

 

July 13: When the Time is Right...

In 97-degree midday heat we make pictures of our Peculiar schoolteacher and her daughter in front of the Peculiar Elementary School, which comes complete with a formal, carved wood lawn sign. Fearing that the Normans aren't up to the heat, we use reflectors, which are guaranteed squint machines.

Luckily, our understanding, cooperative model grins so much that it doesn't look like she's squinting. I like to work the heck out of a scene, shooting as many as seven or eight rolls in 30 minutes, but this day is so unbelievably hot and oppressive that all we can manage is 15 minutes before it's off to a farm supply yard to get Peculiar's claim to fame, the three-legged water tower, as the background for some more shots of our schoolteacher framed by some bright red fence-gate pipes. We also get a portrait in the shade of mom and her two daughters against the wall of the Peculiar Farm Supply.

We make a quick trip to the Interstate for a shot of her with the Interstate arrow sign proclaiming "Peculiar" pointing right at her head.

With sweat dripping into our eyes, we take the first suggestion of a break to say, "Enough!" and stop. We get our releases signed, say good-bye and leave Peculiar, heading to Gas, Kansas, to photograph Bonnie, the owner of Bonnie's Corner Cafe.

 

Bonnie's Corner Cafe in Gas, Kansas. The shoot was scheduled
for the following morning, but the setting sunlight was too good to miss.
©1997 Gary Gladstone

 

 

Bonnie's shoot is scheduled for tomorrow morning, but we scout the cafe at 7:30 in the evening and Bonnie shows up. If it's one thing I've learned in my many years of shooting on corporate locations it's that you shoot when there's sun and never wait 'til tomorrow, even if that's when the shoot is scheduled. So I say, "Hey, Bonnie, mind if we shoot a few tonight in the setting sun just to use this nice light?"

We make an available light shot of Bonnie inside the cafe, standing with her back to the window, which shows reverse lettering; a small American flag sticks out from behind a Coke cooler. The window light will be helped out by the restaurant's fluorescents. (Hey, a little natural green fill never hurt an editorial picture. This is so non-corporate, it's fun!) We rotate two tubes that are right over Bonnie's head so they shut down and we're not throwing too much green onto her. We do some work with the Normans for cross lighting. They work for a short time indoors with only one battery pooping out after 20 frames at half power.

Then we rush Bonnie outside to show the front of her Corner Cafe as the sun sinks into the trees behind her head. Quick shooting, much bracketing. Bonnie's husband arrives and begins shooting with an Instamatic. Matt suggests that I put him in the picture doing that. What a cool idea! We drag the husband into the frame and ask him to point his camera at her while we shoot the both of them. She's looking at me, and he's standing between her and the storefront shooting her. It's a slightly bizarro touch.

We sit down after this quick shoot and order dinner. The menu reminds me of the bill of fare in the movie My Cousin Vinnie, where there were three choices: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Period. Actually, this menu has just enough items to be called a menu. It find an item called simply "chicken breasts." I ask, "How do you do these?" The waitress says, "Oh, we just we pull them right out of the freezer and chuck them on the grill."

I order the chopped steak, medium rare, to which she says, "Oh, we can only give that to you medium well or well." I opt for the chicken. It turns out to be really good, but at dinner's end I'm thinking that it might be time for me to rub up against a bagel.

 

July 14: "If They Blink..."

At 7:00 a.m. we're back at Bonnie's Corner Cafe in Gas to shoot Bonnie in morning light. She has about a hundred little plastic American flags hanging from three sides of her store's porch-like entrance. The rising sun backlights the flags at the far end of the porch. Bonnie is wearing a red T-shirt, and we start to shoot on the porch with the big "Open" neon sign in the window and a border of backlit flags and the nose of a patron's serious Harley behind our smiling subject. The reflector pumps a little extra daylight under the porch eves.

While we're shooting I ask her if people make fun of the name of her town. She replies, "Well, when people ask us how to find the town, we tell them to come on down the highway, and then we tell them that if they blink, they're gonna pass Gas!" We all laugh so hard that for several minutes no film is shot.

After we enjoy a short stack of Bonnie's best flapjacks, we hit the road for the long drive to Rescue, Missouri, which turns out to be a town totally without quaint, a featureless little stretch of road between two other towns.

We discover a schoolteacher who is painting the small rooms in the "new" school. She tells us to visit Frank, her father-in-law, who lives down the street. He's 80-ish, rugged looking, dressed in overalls, his face weathered from working on the town road crew. Today it's so hot that he's stayed off the job. He thinks our project sounds "just fine," and he agrees to pose for us tomorrow in front of an old, abandoned one-room schoolhouse on a nearby country road.

 

July 15: Rescue Me!

Earlier we had contacted the Carthage Press, the region's local newspaper, to get some help finding a Rescue resident to pose for us. The paper thought the project interesting enough to ask if we'd mind if they sent a reporter/photographer to cover what we were doing. I'd tried to be shy about this, but ended up agreeing in about four seconds. So at 7 a.m. the reporter shows up at our motel and follows us as we take off to photograph Frank.

I'm hoping I can stay focused, literally and figuratively, while someone is shooting me shooting Frank. I ask Matt to shoot the writer shooting me shooting Frank just to make it as complete a circus as possible.

Matt asks if we can stop and shoot the Rescue road sign at the edge of town for his project of documenting the town name signs. We stop and find the sun on the wrong side of the sign, so I volunteer to hold the reflector for him to throw some light onto the sign so he can keep the sky dark. The reporter/writer grabs her camera, thinking that we are beginning our shoot, not just a quickie for Matt. As I stand there with the reflector held high in the air while Matt does the photographer dance to find a good angle, I hear a click from behind me as the reporter/photographer shoots me holding the reflector for Matt. I smile sweetly at her and say, "If you publish a picture of me holding a reflector for my assistant, I'll have to have Matt killed!"

The night before we had asked Frank to please bring a shovel or another road-crew working tool with him to the shoot to use as a prop. I thought that having him lean on a shovel would help him look and feel relaxed. Now, as we make the turn-off to the abandoned school, we're a few minutes late and rushing. As luck will have it, we realize we've fallen in behind a giant road grader that's lumbering down the road at about four miles an hour. Damn, I think, Frank will be wondering where we are and maybe he'll decide not to wait and go off to work. We finally reach a spot in the road where I can pass the behemoth machine, and as I zoom by, dust flying, I look over and see Frank high up in the cab of the road grader—it's his shovel, the tool he chose to bring to the shoot!

It turns out to be a decent prop but, wow, it's a lot easier to reposition a hand shovel a few inches than it is to move a diesel road grader around on a narrow country road.

We do three variations with Frank and a safety shot of the reporter/photographer and we're off on a four-hour drive to Tightwad, Missouri, where we're supposed to photograph the town's former mayor in his volunteer fireman's coat and hat.

In Tightwad we scout before calling on our subject. There's a barn-like fire station with the small sign, "Tightwad Volunteer Fire Department." But it has raised letters and the sun is casting ugly shadows, making it hard to read.

We realize that the midday sun will make a portrait here very difficult, but the sign and the red building are too intriguing to pass up. We decide to do the shoot with the former mayor/volunteer fireman, but wait 'til 6:00 p.m. when the lower sun will provide better light.

We meet Tom, our subject, and make arrangements to come back in five hours to do the shoot. We ask him to be sure to wear his fireman's turnout coat and hat. It's over 95 degrees, but he agrees.

At 6:00 p.m. the light is at a good angle but the sun is gone from the front of the building. Bummer. We shoot anyway, talking ourselves into the idea that this film can see into shadows better than other film. Fingers are well crossed, and we do ten rolls on Tom before it starts to look like he might die.

The town has a population of 50 people, but there is a bank and that's where we're told to go to mail our postcards. Seems that inside the front door of the bank is a mailbox. Problem is, a month ago someone robbed the bank and they no longer leave the door open for mail drops. We have to use the drive-up window to deposit our mail.

We leave town wondering what kind of loser would choose to rob the Bank of Tightwad.

 

July 16: Sign's Language

After doing the research to figure out where the rising sun will strike the front of the tiny post office in Romance, Arkansas, we arrive to find that for the first time on this trip we are absolutely correct. The sun is casting a sideways glow on the front of the building, and it looks like it's going to last for another 15 or 20 minutes. We dash inside and find Linda, the postmaster, sorting mail. There are hurried introductions, during which I grind my teeth because I want to ask her to postpone the mail sorting because we have great light right now! I wonder if she'll finish before our light dies.

 

Linda, the postmaster of Romance, Arkansas, was happy to
cease sorting and take advantage of the afternoon shooting light.
©1997 Gary Gladstone

 

 

Smiling on the outside, inside I'm screaming, "If you don't stop chit- chatting with the damned customers and finish that sorting I'll kill you right here in your own post office!" I repress the thought and politely explain that we're loosing some really pretty light. I should have said it sooner: Linda happily ceases her sorting and we go shooting.

All goes well and three hours later we arrive in soybean and cotton country. It's Twist, Arkansas, and it's baking hot as we introduce ourselves to the owner of the local farm and ask him to pose amidst the rows of beans. He agrees and we do a few rolls before the heat becomes debilitating. I ask him if he'll come back at 7:30 next morning and he agrees.

We stagger into the motel near the Arkansas-Tennessee border to cool off before dinner. Later we drive into Memphis across a bridge that spans the Mississippi. A giant, four-lane wide sign hanging mid-span at the state line proclaims, "Welcome to Tennessee, Home of VP Al Gore." After dinner, we drive back and can't help but notice that the back (now the front) of the sign says, "Welcome to Arkansas, Home of President Bill Clinton." Convenient, I think.

That night while I check and clean the equipment, I realize that so far most of the shoot has taken place within the view of my 20mm lens. A few telephotos, but all in all this is a portrait series made with a wide angle.

After years of shooting long lens details and short telephoto portraits for annual reports, it's both pleasurable and a little scary to be doing all these portraits with a wide. It's a very different, much less intimate way to portray people. Quite editorial looking, I hope.

 

July 17: Easy on the Magenta

At 7:30 a.m. we're back in the bean fields. We shoot a second portrait of our Twist agri-business farmer, his face locked into a "What the heck am I doing this for?" expression. Behind him are fluted steel silos and farm buildings. Then we're on our way to Defeated, Tennessee, some 350 miles down the road. Along the way it occurs to me that we're getting pretty good at this business of dropping in out of nowhere, approaching country stores, private homes and roadside farms and saying, "Hi! We may look like Dick and Perry, but

we're really photographers from New York City, and we'd like to ask you to pose for our book project."

It works...and it gets easier each time we do it. People smile the minute I describe what we're doing and almost run to stand in front of the camera.

On the way to Defeated we can't resist stopping when we see on the map a town called Only, which turns out to be a falling down general store with the former owner sitting inside in near darkness. Chair-ridden because of weight and arthritis, she oversees the only remaining enterprise in the one-room building: the remnant of the post office that was part of a general store that prospered until Wal-Mart started selling goods cheaper than she could buy them. The store's interior has the look of a hospital room in which someone died. We photograph her in her chair by the room's four 40-watt cool white fluorescent bulbs using a 40 magenta filter. Matt stands in front of the window to block what little daylight seeps into the deadly scene to prevent it from coloring her with too much magenta.

The picture looks sad, but that's what I intend because that's the way the scene looked when I entered the room. As I talk with this woman,

her charming, folksy humor comes through. I ask her if she'll move her chair and her little dog out onto the store's porch for a more cheerful, outdoor picture. She's happy to do that and we take happier photographs.

I don't know which of the photos will be the strongest, but I do know that I'll choose the most emotionally powerful one, no matter whether it's dark and depressing or light and cheerful. This project is not about making people lovely; it's about showing what's there to be revealed. This woman was sitting in a death chamber when we entered, so I feel comfortable showing her that way if it is a better picture.

 

We'd heard that a horse breeder in Defeated, Tennessee,
had a full-size wooden horse for a mailbox. Not quite.
©1997 Gary Gladstone

 

 

 

We move on to Defeated to take a photo of a mill worker and part-time preacher who is also a horse breeder. We've been told that he's built a full-sized model of a wooden horse that he uses for a mailbox. We spend much of the trip speculating about where the postman puts the mail.

When we meet up with him he poses next to his mailbox, which turns out to be a flat, painted board fashioned to resemble a horse; the creature's head opens to receive mail.

As the sun is dashing for the hilltops of central Tennessee, we stop at a diner/country store in the town of Difficult. Inside, an entire family serves dinner to locals. We pay for our cokes and are about to inquire about the town's name and ask them pose for us when they ask if we're from New York. Apparently they spotted the license plate on the truck. I say yes and

the questions started flying. Turns out they once lived way upstate, and even though true upstaters (known to city types as apple knockers) would never talk to Manhattanites, they treat us like ex-neighbors.

We go outside and photograph the whole family, but we feature dad and 11-year-old daughter up front. He's got two tattoos and is wearing a bright orange T-shirt, and she's in a brand new maroon cowboy hat and smiles from behind her Daddy's considerable girth as he's hugging her. The sun burns and crashes behind the restaurant's roof.

Four towns and a 350-mile drive in one day. Are we ever done!

Or so I think. On the way to our motel the sun is resurrected in the rear view mirror and turns the phone wires into ribbons of orange neon, dripping from pole to pole. I stop, pay homage to Jay Maisel and shoot with the 300mm.

Coming Next Week: Part III...

 

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