Cat Scratch Savior:
Tackling the Fearsome Feline Photo

What's the toughest job in photography? War, famine, disease, death? Forget those horsemen-it's pet photography. Here are edited tips from Dee Akright of Dee Akright Photographers, Virginia Beach, Virginia, a contributor to the PhotoPro forum who provided the following advice to a shooter who asked for pointers on getting Tabby to pose.   Good luck! I've been photographing animals (of all sorts) for 16 years, and the best option I've found for cats is to let them do what they want. There are ways to either get them to think they're in charge, or get them to trust you enough to let you do the directing. We all know the trained feline is a very rare breed. My sister does have a Siamese who will fetch (really), but if you've had any exposure to cats, you know they can be nightmares to photograph (notice I avoided the word "shoot"). Here's what I've been able to learn so far. The Cat Portrait: Photographing the Cat by Itself. For the owner who's squeamish about taking Fluffy to a strange place, you may have to go to the owner's house. Be sure to have plenty of free time and patience, wear something you can crawl around in and just follow the little fur-ball around. Pick clients with really nice houses. Chances are the cat will be color coordinated to the decor. Educate yourself in environmental portraiture; use lots of window light with fill (owners love it) or bounced flash. If the cat is one that thinks humans are beneath him, you may be allowed to actually set up lights, but don't count on it. You'll spend all that time only to watch Reginald bound away at the last minute. If he's spoiled, the owner will let him go. For in-the-studio portraits, learn cat habits to see what kind of spaces they like and try to recreate those spaces in the studio. Eliminate all the non-photographable spaces that he can get into, like under a couch or behind a cabinet. Lighting has to be pretty broad so you're not killing yourself readjusting your main every time the cat moves. High key works really well. The Cat Family Portrait: Photographing the Cat with His Humans. Earn your subject's trust. The alternative is to have yourself or your studio shredded. Start early and take some time to allow the cat to get used to you. If you don't like cats, forget it- they always know. If you can, let the cat sniff your equipment and you, preferably while the owners are out of the room. Owners will do more to unhinge a pet than anything you can do. Buy a package of Pounce cat treats, but always clear it with the owners before you give any treats. I'd hate to be the cause of a very expensive (or any) cat's demise due to a food allergy. When using your studio, owners should bring the cat in a cat carrier. Don't let the cat out right away; give him time to adjust. Try to eliminate loud noises, quick movements and don't wear cologne...unless you have some Eau de Catnip lying around. If you're photographing outside, the cat should always have a collar and leash on. One family member is designated to be cat wrangler. Let the parents know-the kids are to concentrate on you, not the darn cat. The fewer people making noise and snapping their heads around, the better. Whoever is holding the cat should have one hand in the collar. Pose them so it doesn't look like they're choking the cat, even though they may want to. The other hand should be under the cat's belly, right behind the front legs. This allows for maximum control. Be sure the leash is hidden. I prefer to have it folded up in the wrangler's hand at the collar position. You may want to purchase a lightweight "show lead" from the local pet store. They're made of rolled, soft fabric, are very sturdy and fold up really small. Owners tend to buy stiff leather or brightly colored flat nylon straps. If you buy a dark color lead, it won't show the dirt from sweaty palms gripping it tightly. However, you may want a white one too, for those snooty cream-colored Persians done in high key. The leads are easily rinsed out in the sink. Remember, you are smarter than the cat. An invaluable tool is a fuzzy "whatever" tied to a stick. A wadded up piece of paper works well also. Make the stick and the string long enough to get the fuzzy right in front of the cat's nose without leaving your camera position. An assistant might be helpful, or if you're especially brave, have the family enlist a friend or relative who the cat knows. Once the cat becomes interested in the fuzzy, you can move it out of the image area and direct the cat's face anywhere you want. Squeaky toys are useless-save them for dogs and small children. Depending on the cat, a quick animal sound sometimes works; practice your bird calls and squirrel noises. Remember, don't be too loud. A quiet sound will make them perk up and try to locate its source, while a loud sound will make them retreat or cower. You can also bring the Pounce treats out again. Some cats will lock onto a Pounce treat like it's a live mouse. While all this may seem like catering to the cat, remember that cat owners can be funny. They'll appreciate your extra effort and buy more. Plus, if despite your efforts, the cat still turns into a spitting, jack-knifing dervish, effectively ending the shoot, they'll know you went above the call of duty and may even offer to drive you to the emergency room. Hmmm, I think that's about it. Whatever you do, resist the urge to grab the staple gun and nail Snookums into place.